Last night, the trekkers enjoyed their celebration meal. After eating, all of them were presented with a trek Global medal, something to help them remember thjs very special experience. Maddy Bass spoke a few words based on “Trekkers’ Glory”- what did they fear before the trek, and what have they learned to help combat this fear, and others, in the future?
This morning, we have a few free hours in Dharamsala. The group split up to buy souvenirs and gifts, get lunch and generally enjoy the area and views. Some of the team even get the cable car and visit the worlds highest cricket ground where a match was taking place between Pondi and HP in the elite group B for the Ranji tournament.
As the trekkers reflect on the past few days, we learn we climbed three times the height of Snowdon – and camped at twice the height of Ben Nevis! We wait outside for the taxis to be loaded, then leave at 2pm.
The rest of the day is spent travelling- a three hour taxi ride to Parankot (very bumpy roads being constructed, and very dusty).
Driving in India is very different to the UK. It is chaotic but everyone driving knows that! There aren’t many rules, but one is to use your horn for communication! And drivers are actively encouraged to do so! How many blasts and how long they are tells other road users and pedestrians what the driver is going to do.
They also drive on the left! Driving on the left was made mandatory in the UK in 1835 and all countries part of the British Empire followed suite. The other rule is to avoid cows. Cows are sacred in the Hindi, Buddhist and Jainism faiths so they are allowed to wander, and not fenced in. They will be found on roads and walking through the streets.
They don’t move for anything!
We have dinner in Pathankot. – more tasty curries with rice and home made naans, we are driven the final 25 minutes to the train station to catch the overnight sleeper train back to Delhi. We have three minutes from arrival to departure to get everyone on, plus their bags.
As the trekkers know what’s to come, they get on quickly with bags and get to their berths quickly. All settle down quickly for some sleep. The train will arrive at 5am for our last day of our India experience.
The porters are ready with hot drinks at 6am this morning: most of the group are awake by then to watch the sun rise over the mountains. It’s a beautiful time of the day to reflect on what the challenge has meant for us all.
We pack up for the final time. The trekkers are excited- last day today, and then they will have completed their personal challenge. It’s been really tough.
After breakfast, Catherine Butterworth, Director of Income Generation, congratulates everyone for taking part in the trek, and thanks them all for what they’ve done for the hospice.
Alison Bargh, one of the Hospice Trustees who has been on the trek, then thanks the portering and guide teams and gifts them the tips the group have collected for them. The guides and porters have been absolutely brilliant, and have really made our camping as clean and comfortable as it could be. They have been attentive and kept us safe on our trek.
We start out at 8.30 am for the final time. It is all downhill. But very steep. It is rocky with some areas of loose shale. We take our time. Immediately it starts to warm up, and the trekkers enjoy some warm sunshine as they descend.
It’s tiring and we walk slowly. We can appreciate the view as we come down towards the town. We stop regularly to drink water – we need to be more hydrated than ever with the increased heat.
Our lunch stop is at the Shiva cafe at the Bhagsu Waterfalls. We finally feel as if are back in civilisation. There are proper toilets!
We rest and have lunch, then carry on with the last 15 minute walk to the hotel.
Then finally the trek is finished! The group has completed their challenge! We share hugs and tears, and a real sense of achievement. It’s been an amazing 5 days- wild camping, huge amounts of up and downhill trekking, and some fantastic food from our porters.
The group then go to their hotel rooms for a warm shower and to change, and rest.
Ready for our celebratory evening meal! We haven’t been told much about out it, just meet at 6.30pm. It’s very strange seeing us all back in everyday clothing, without backpacks and walking boots!
We head off in taxis to a fusion restaurant. The food is amazing, lots of dishes to try. It’s a real celebration of achievement and development for us all.
Today we are reaching the highest altitude of the trek. We get up early, have a breakfast of pancakes, toast and cereals. Before we set off Phil, of our trekkers, leads us in a stretching routine. Our muscles are tired and sore from the last 3 days, so there are a few groans but again it helps to get the blood flowing.
The landscape is beautiful. Our campsite sits under three Himalayan peaks. It’s where nature remains in control and cannot be tamed. It’s wild and rugged. Roads cannot be built up here, travel is on foot or by mule, and the only sounds are the local crows and our transport mules braying!
As we are returning to the same campsite tonight we don’t have to pack up like on previous days. It puts us all in a more positive mood!
We set off, it’s cool but we quickly warm up as we head upwards. Today we have a 500m ascent. It’s rocky and the steps are deep, often 30-45cm which is hard work at altitude with tired muscles. But as usual the trekkers encourage each other over the next 5 hours. We stop regularly for water, and rests.
We stop at a shrine in the way and our local guides bless us to help us on our way.
We continue upwards, viewing spectacular scenery. Moon peak is the highest peak here.
We eventually reach the top at 1pm. Here we leave prayer flags and Maddy Bass, our Director of Nursing says a few words about celebrating the lives of those who we have loved and lost. It’s an emotional time for everyone.
This is a temple the locals often visit, and there is space to sleep over next to it. We move back down. Everyone is quiet and contemplative. We reach the Snow Line Cafe and stop for lunch.
As we are about to leave to descend the mist rolls in and temperature drops. We descend slowly.
And always time to laugh!
After two hours we arrive back in camp, chatty and light-hearted. It’s been a cathartic experience today.
The porters again serve hot drinks and freshly made pakoras which are delicious! The temperature drops quickly in the evenings, we need to layer up. The sunset is beautiful over the mountains.
Our dinner is exceptional- pasta, noodles, pizza, chips….and some veg!
Then two beautiful celebratory cakes which the team made for us all. We are all really touched.
After another campfire under the moon, we retire to rest before our final day. It’s been amazing and everyone is so upbeat.
We have all fallen into morning our routine quickly- up and dress, pack up kit, have breakfast.
Today Sam, one of our trekkers, leads us in a warm up. There are a few groans as we all try to do squats and stretch some very tired bodies but it really helps and gets the blood moving!
We set off at 8.30 with a slow climb through the village. After a few minutes we commence a hard climb for 90 minutes to a chai tea shop with views of the valley and surrounding area.
On we move, climbing but not as steeply until the join the Triund trail.
We climb up a rocky unevenly stepped path which becomes increasingly steeper. The route is uneven, and we start to pass other people along his popular part of the Dalai Lama trail.
We stop for lunch at the Magic View Cafe which claims to the the oldest chai tea shop! The views are spectacular and we rest, with our pre-packed lunch, enjoying more chai tea or coke.
After half an hour we continue, passing more people, some from England who we share why we are here with. We pass some locals as well.
The path is steep, and it’s a struggle for most of us. Two long days of tough walking then starting to climb into altitude, has made it feel even harder. As always, the trekkers just keep on giving- hugs, kind and encouraging words and laughs help us all press on.
Finally we reach the top at 5pm. We are jubilant, and so excited. But the mist is rolling in and it will be dark in an hour. So we walk into camp. It’s much colder. We immediately start to put on extra layers, then set up camp. We are all getting good at this now!
We are in time for the sunset which is absolutely breath-taking.
After another tasty meal cooked by our porters, we enjoy a camp fire before retiring to bed.
We rise at 6.30, packing up our belongings before having fresh eggs, porridge and toast for breakfast- a welcome start for what we know will be a tough day. Trekking starts promptly at 8am. It’s going to be an 8 hour day so Craig, our trek leader, reminds us to top up our water and make sure we have collected our packed lunch.
We walk up through the village of Kerari, and into the hills.
We literally walk on a path through the middle of people’s small holdings- with some kid goats to watch!
We pass plenty of young children on their way to school.
The path is uneven, and undulates throughout the morning- much rockier than yesterday but gives us fantastic views on the tops.
We drop down to a river where we stop for lunch. Some of the braver trekkers go for a dip! We are grateful for the rest as the afternoon will be a 4 hour uphill trek, not for the faint hearted. We climbed uphill for an hour and a half then scramble up for half an hour to get to the top.
It’s a challenge for all of us but we show each other so much support and encouragement to get through this tough 2nd day.
Again, the care given to each other is phenomenal and is what the treks are all about: a challenge but completed with a joint purpose.
Amazingly, we have 4G at the top (1,700m) and check messages from family and friends including singing Happy Birthday to one of our trekkers daughter.
We arrive in camp an hour early! The training and group morale spurred us on! We set up camp as we did last night- before it gets dark.
At 11am GMT (4.30pm local time) we have two minutes silence for Armistice day.
The first two days have been the most challenging of the whole trek, and tough. A welcome refresh with a bucket of warm water to have a wash down and a hot chocolate and homemade pakora were a welcome snack.
Spirits are high – there is an amazing sense of achievement and the group have stayed together throughout the walk.
We gather in a Cow shed with stools and conversations are good as we continue to get to know each other whilst having a real good chat with lots of laughter.
Today we finally start our trek! After an early breakfast the taxis drive us up into the mountains, through some more narrow and winding roads to Satovari, where we pick up the start of our trek and where the mules join us.
After taking our starting photo, we collect our prepared packed lunches and fill up our water bottles and packs. Spirits are high- we are finally ready to do what we came to do! We leave at 9.20am.
We begin walking along a narrow road, quickly turning off and descending along rough paths through rhodedendron forests. It’s cool and there is a breeze.
Quickly, the path becomes uneven and as we descend we have to take care. Cause it’s uneven, steep and very slippery. Our trek leaders and local guides are superb, offering help for the more tricky parts. The group are caring for each other, giving help and encouragement, and it’s lovely to see.
It’s usual for local dogs to join walkers- this was those first one of the day. They walk with us but are aloof and we keep our distance!
We descend for almost 3 hours, then have a steep climb up to our lunch stop. It is hot and humid, and we are reminded to keep drinking our water.
Just before lunch, we cross a very rickety suspension bridge, which some people really do not enjoy!!!
We stop at a rural school to eat our packed lunch enjoying the amazing scenic views. The rest is welcome but it’s short.
After half an hour we continue again, now climbing up through the forest. Here the path becomes loose shale, much steeper and very narrow in places. It is hard work for everyone, but we work together and keep going.
The path we are taking is not an official trail, just routes the locals use to walk between villages. We pass locals walking and working the land or minding goats.
We continue climbing up and the path is even more difficult. We have to take our time because the ground is uneven, a mix of rocks and grass. The team work has been great today as we really support each other to complete what has been a challenge.
At one point the path is really narrow with a sheer drop and time is needed to be taken to ensure we all our safe. All our trekkers take their time and complete it: the support they show to each other is incredible.
Near the end, a local cow joins us coming over a bridge posing for photos and causing quite a giggle!
We come into our first camp at 4.20pm and enjoy a welcome hot orange drink offered by our hosts, salted snacks and hot chocolate in the communal tent.
We set up our sleeping arrangements and sort ourselves out for the night before it becomes dark at 6pm. Our evening meal at 6.45.pm is home cooked curry, Dahl and chapatis. A welcome meal for the hungry trekkers!
Again, the trekkers have shared why they are doing this trip, and the love and esteem they have for St John’s. It’s humbling and incredible to hear.
This marks the end of Day 4, and day one the trek. There are 4 more trekking days to go so please donate if you can: let St John’s help even more people. Thank you.
The overnight train was a new experience for most of us- not very comfortable, noisy from the the sheer volume of people on the train constantly coming up and down the corridors and a real mixture of sleeping arrangements with the locals. However the team were all supporting each other and we certainly shared some stories the next morning!
The train arrives in Pathankot, in the Punjab, at 6am. We are primed to get off quickly as the train only stops for 5 minutes! We are obviously pros at bag manoeuvring now as all 34 of us are off the train in under two minutes. The trekkers are then split into 8 groups, with each group allocated a taxi for the three hour drive to Dharamsala.
Travelling in convoy, we stop to get breakfast in Pathankot first (Hotel Jyoti with a little shop selling snacks) before travelling to our destination. The air is cleaner and it’s cooler than Delhi. We can even hear birdsong!
The drive takes in the Indian countryside with, of course, lots of cows on the roadside. The cows don’t move for anyone! We pass through some roadworks (no 50mph limits here!) past lots of building developments, and through small mountain towns as we climb upwards to our destination for the night. We pass roadside sellers and start to see wildlife including monkeys and chipmunks. The roads are narrow and winding, and not everyone can get through easily!
Dharamsala is located in the Kangra Valley in the shadow of the Dhauladhar range of the Himalayas at an altitude of 1,457 metres (4,780 ft). Our accommodation is in the Padsu area of the town and is the AK continental hotel. We all receive a traditional Tibetan welcome of flowers in our hair, a bindi of turmeric and a scarf.
After a quick freshen up we head out to the local Buddhist Monastery to see the monks in training and home of the Dalai Lama.
On the way we meet a family of builders. It is traditionally the work of women to carry the mixed cement or dug earth on their heads. These ladies enjoyed posing for this photo.
After a few hours of free time in Dharamsala, we eat together and have our final pre-trek briefing. It’s been strange taking so long to actually start what we came for! Now it’s getting nearer, we are excited and pleased. Everyone is working together as one group, helping and supporting.
I continually hear the stories of why people are trekking for St John’s. It’s humbling to be reminded of how much love people hold for the Hospice, and the difference St John’s has made to the lives of their loved ones, and to them. This trek has helped us so far raise over £150,000 and you can still donate while we are on the trek. If you can help, please do: you will help us maintain the Hospice and its services for the future.
We finally arrive in Delhi after 21 hours of travel covering a distance of 5098 miles in the air. Although not a lot of sleep was had, we are excited and ready for the day ahead!
After a freshen up we spend a few hours enjoying the sights, smells and sounds of Delhi. This includes cows walking down the main roads (they are sacred animals in India) and lots of stray dogs. The poverty here is very obvious and hard to see.
Some visited the Red Fort which was built for the Mughal Emperors from 1639 and is an impressive monument in Old Delhi.
Others went to the Lotus Temple which is a Bahai house of worship, and is a prominent attraction. Lots of locals were in national dress in an array of bright colours. Whilst there, some of the trekkers were interviewed by local young students, curious about their reasons for visiting the Lotus Temple and the trek.
Others bravely used the local tuk tuks as a mode of transport, giving more than a few challenging and hair raising moments.
Before departing the Goodwill Hotel the trekkers were treated to some locally home made Indian cuisine, enough to keep them going until the next food opportunity arrives.
After the trek briefing we made our way to the train station for our next travel adventure with Subhash as our leader- the overnight train! We have to get there a few hours early so we can stand exactly where our carriage will pull up as we only have 15 minutes for all of us to board.
As with everything we’ve experienced so far in India, it is busy, chaotic and a massive assault on the senses!
Today the group finally left for the St John’s Hospice India Trek 2024!
There were mixed emotions as we left after 21 months of planning and fundraising. Tears because of missing families, smiles and excitement that we are finally on the way!
Thanks to the catering staff at the hospice for the fab bacon buns and to fundraising for the brews, all the support and herding and getting us all on the bus on time!
The coach ride was uneventful- but lots of chatter, trekkers meeting their room and tent mates, swapping stories of why they are doing the trek and what this means to them. It’s clear that the care the hospice gives is the biggest motivator for the team.
Lots of questions from others on the flight, asking why there was a number of us are in the same green hoodies – and a lot of respect and support to us all! It was really encouraging.
After a few hours stop over at Dubai, then we will arrive in Delhi at 7am on Friday morning. We will update you all after a freshen up and a few hours in the city.
Thank you to Westmorland & Furness Council for their kind support of £10,000 for the St John’s Seasons for Growth programme in the South Lakes.
Seasons for Growth is an important programme for children and young people, which is often delivered in schools. The programme is specifically designed to help children, young people, parents & carers, plus schools to:
Thank you Westmorland & Furness Council for helping children and young people to navigate this difficult time.
An anonymous £100k Donation from the Pappagallino Fund to Cumbria Community Foundation (CCF) has directly supported St John’s Hospice care of patients in their own homes in the South Lakes from Kendal, Grasmere, Ambleside, Kirby Lonsdale, Arnside, Silverdale and further afield.
CCF is very aware of specific challenges in rural areas, which also impacts on palliative and end of life care so, so kindly supported St John’s to make a positive impact on patients and families.
The funding has meant that 145 patients in the South Lakes area have been supported by this very generous donation. This support has boosted 464 Hospice at Home visits, 1479 support telephone calls ,127 respite visits, 183 night sit visits and the care of 42 South Lakes patients who have stayed on the inpatient ward.
The donation also enabled St John’s to support health and social care colleagues to deliver excellent palliative and end of life care. On behalf of all the patients and families we care for – thank you so very much!
Thank you Westmorland & Furness Council, your donation helped us to buy new Rise and Recline chairs to keep the patients on our ward comfortable.
‘The specialist recliner chairs that we provide at each of our patients’ bedsides, allow them maximum comfort in or out of bed. They are fully adjustable from seated to lying flat, and maintain a level of comfort that protects all vulnerable skin pressure areas. They allow patients to sit with their visitors, rather than remain in bed and help to maintain patients’ independence for as long as possible.’
